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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.